Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Mopar Shaker Hood Scoop Diagram



It is not uncommon for Mopar shaker hood cars to have been stripped for their shaker components at some point in their life. Now you are in a situation where you not only need the shaker hood parts, but you also need to know how it all goes together. Whether you are rebuilding your original shaker hood car or are converting to a shaker setup, the below diagram and accompanying parts list will help you get the parts you need.



Shaker part #'s vary depending on engine option and component preference. Itemized in the left column are the parts required to put together a nearly complete shaker setup. The 1st components are required. When components differer between applications you'll see (choose one). When different alternatives are available for the same component you'll see (choose either). For example: Choose either a plastic shaker bubble or a urethane shaker bubble.

Note: 4bbl implies round. Hemi implies a dual quad application and is oval. A 6bbl or six-pack is oval.

SHK11 - Fastener kit
A0661 - Baseplate washer
BG582 - Drain hose
JH419 - Shaker cable set
(Includes: A0189 - under hood & A0190 - under dash)
ACS1 - Shaker hood door set
(Includes cold air door # JH425 and warm air door # JH424.)
JH416 - hood brace
CH81 - filter (oval)
MW55 - Adapter Ring Seal
--------
CHOOSE EITHER
HJ8 = Bubble & Grill set
OR
Bubble (choose between)
JF96 (Urethane)
MP601 (Fiberglass)
AND
Grill - 3418LHRH
--------------

Trim Ring: (CHOOSE ONE)
Cuda - JH322
Challenger - JH255

Outer Baseplate (CHOOSE ONE)
GC104 - (fiberglass)
WN22 - (Steel)

Baseplate (CHOOSE ONE)
JH414 - 4bbl
JH426 - hemi
JH496 - 6bbl

Support Bracket (Foot):
JH417 - 4bbl
JH411 - 6bbl

Air Cleaner Lid/Cover
JH412 - 4bbl (round)
WN3 - steel (oval)
AA54RL

Find Shaker Parts HERE

1967 68 69 Camaro RS Hideaway Headlights


As a restoration parts business, we get flooded with technical questions. Most employees begin to see a pattern in customer inquires after only a few months of working here. There are a few questions that come up time and time again. One of the most common questions starts, “how do I install,” “do you have diagrams of,” “what parts are in,” or “how do I put together” and ends with “67, 68, and 69 Camaro Rally Sport hideaway headlights.”

Hopefully the information we have posted below will help you get your 67, 68, or 69 Camaro RS hideaway lights functioning just like new.

1967 Rally Sport Camaro Hideaway Headlight Diagrams and Parts List



Itemized below are the parts required to install a RS headlight system on a 1967 Camaro. Purchase of a 1967 Camaro Assembly Manual is highly recommended.

1967 Rally Sport Camaro Headlight Parts (all part numbers can be found at Yearone.com)
XRX6LHRH - fenders & extensions
OR

RU1009 headlight support adapter brackets

(for using standard fenders)
K2000 Lower valence
Grill 915N
RU57LHRH Headlight assemblies (includes below)
FJ49LHRH – headlight housing
RU1711 headlight hinge pivot (2 required)
RU638 - headlight door hinge (2 required)
RU490 headlight hinge pivot bolt (2 required)
RU1710 – headlight cover backing plate
1307nlhrh – headlight covers
RU691 – headlight output arm (2 required)
RU692 – headlight shoulder nut and drive washer set
RC1702 – spring
RC8985 – adjustment screws and nuts RC8995 – headlight swivel mechanism bushing kit

W150LHRH – headlight bezels
RU1006 headlight door rubber bumpers
CQ205 headlight limit switch (4 required)
1238N – headlight motor relay


1968 Rally Sport Camaro Hideaway Headlight Diagrams and Parts List



Itemized below are the parts required to install a RS headlight system on a 1968 Camaro. Purchase of a 1968 Camaro Assembly Manual is highly recommended.

1968 Rally Sport Camaro Headlight Parts (all part numbers can be found at Yearone.com)
XRX8LHRH – 1968 RS fenders and extensions
RU1009 (headlight support adapter bracket – mounts RS lights into non-rs fender)

K2001 – valence
BL2 – grill
RU58LHRH (headlight assemblies)
Includes the following part #'s:
FJ334LHRH - H/L Housings
RU1711 - H/L door pivot bolt
RU638 - H/L door hinge
RU490 - 3 hinge bolts
RU491 - LH H/L cover backing plate
RU493 - RH h/l cover backing plate
1307NLH - LH H/L cover
1307NRH - RH h/l cover
RU5444P - H/L cover molding (pair)
RU1766LH - LH Bellcrank assy
RU1766RH - RH bellcrank assy
RU102 - lower bellcrank support plate
RC8985 - H/L adjusting screws & nuts
RC1702 - h/l cover return spring
RU1710 - headlight cover backing plate
RW7394 - headlight door stop brackets
RU1006 - headlight door rubber bumpers
RC8997 - swivel bushings
RU623 - clevis fasteners
W150LHRH - headlight bezels
RU1709 - over-center bracket & springs
RU1012 - vacuum tubing kit
1302N - GM vacuum line filter
FM104 - vacuum relay valve switch
RU680P - vacuum actuator motor
RU620 - vacuum reservoir tank
RU1005 - firewall air line rubber grommet
RU1769 – actuator support brackets
RU24 - vacuum actuator support brackets
RU1716 vacuum actuator splash shields

1969 Rally Sport Camaro Hideaway Headlight Diagrams and Parts List



*Also see part number DS122001 - Electric headlight door motor conversion kit for the 1969 Camaro (optional, will eliminate the need for vacuum components)

1969 Rally Sport Camaro Headlight Parts (all part numbers can be found at Yearone.com)

Grill 905N (1969)
GR69M - Grill Molding
DR99 - fender brackets
RU59LHRH headlight assemblies (contains items with *)
FJ443LHRH inner headlight door*
RU639 headlight cover door hinge (2 required)*
RU1711 headlight door and hinge bolt (2 required)*
RU490 hinge pivot bolt (2 required)*
RU70LHRH headlight housing*
RU1773LH bellcrank assembly LH*
RU1773RH bellcrank assembly RH*
RU1770 Lower bellcrank support plate*
RC1702 headlight cover return spring*

FJ886 outer headlight door
RR69 inner headlight cover
RW5780 headlight door stop brackets
RU1006 headlight door rubber bumpers
RC8997 headlight swivel mechanism bushing kit
RU623 headlight motor pin and clevis fastener set
RU1014 Headlight vacuum tubing kit
RU622 vacuum reservoir tank
RU1005 firewall air line rubber grommet
RU680P vacuum actuator motor
RU1717 vacuum actuator splash shields
1302N vacuum line filter
RU1774LH vacuum actuator support bracket
RU1774RH
RU1769 vacuum actuator support bracket (2 required)
RU24 vacuum actuator support bracket (1 required)
FM104 vacuum relay valve switch

Monday, December 21, 2009

17" 5 Spoke Rally Wheels Now Instock


IN STOCK NOW! After months of waiting, our "5 Spoke Rally" wheels are finally here and ready to ship!




This is a 17" x 9" version of the "5 Spoke Rally" wheel that was originally installed on 1970-81 Z28 and 1971-72 Chevelle models. Construction features 5” backspacing and a machined lip, sporting a gunmetal gray powder-coated or polished aluminum finish. Both wheels accept original-style center caps and lug
nuts.


Visit YearOne.com or call us at 1-800-932-7663 for more specs and fitment information. Due to the custom nature of these wheels, they are NON-RETURNABLE if tires have been mounted on them.

Limited initial pricing! Order yours today and be one of the first to mount up a set of these all-new genuine YearOne wheels!

Powder Coated Gunmetal: ZW179GUN
Set: ZW179GUNS
Polished Aluminum: ZW179POL
Set: ZW179POLS



Mopar Power Steering Conversion


The column steering shaft in a power steering Mopar is different (shorter) than the shaft in a non-power steering car.
Steering Gear - changes in 1973. This affects the pitman arm. Prior to 1973 the output shaft diameter was 1 inch (doesn't apply to the C-Body). In 1973 it increases to 1.12 inches. If you buy a steering gear from a post-73 year car and try to install it on a 1972 or earlier car - the pitman arm will be too small.
Typically, 3 different pumps were used on mopars... they require different lines & brackets to secure the pump to the engine.
Identification of the Mopar pumps:
  • Federal - pressure hose comes out the front of pump, and tapped hole in the end of the pump shaft.
  • Saginaw - pressure hose comes out the back of the pump.
  • TRW/Thompson - has a hex-shaped hole or no hole in the end of the pump shaft. pressure hose is in same location as Federal pump.
Both Federal and TRW pumps can use a cap that appears similar to a radiator cap.

To do a Mopar power steering conversion on your B-body E-body or A-body muscle car, you'll need the following:
Brackets, pulleys, etc... all depend on the specific application. See below, or our catalog for the appropriate part numbers.

Power Steering pump bracket part #'s and TYPICAL USAGE:
PS23 - Big Block 383 and 440 Mopar Saginaw Power Steering Pump Brackets For use on 1969 and later Big Block engines without Air Conditioning.

PS22 - Big Block 383 and 440 Mopar & Hemi TRW Power Steering Pump Brackets. For use on most pre-1969 Big Block engines without Air Conditioning. 1966 426 hemi applications.
PS004 - Small Mopar Block Saginaw Power Steering Pump Brackets. For use on 1970 and later Small Block engines with or without A/C.

PS25 - Big Block Mopar 440 and 383 & Hemi Federal Power Steering Pump Bracket. For 1967-72 Big Block & Hemi engines with or without A/C.

PS26 - Mopar Small Block Federal Power Steering Pump Brackets. For 1970-72 Small Block engines with aluminum water pump with or without A/C.

PS27 - Small Block Mopar TRW/Thompson Power Steering Pump Brackets. For 1964-69 Small Block LA engines with cast iron water pump housings and TRW or Thompson pumps. Can be used on both A/C and non-A/C applications.

Friday, December 18, 2009

GM A&F-Body Manual Transmission Conversion


If you want to convert from an automatic transmission to a manual transmission we offer several kits to make the conversion smooth and economical. The part #'s you need will depend upon the vehicle in question. Our online catalogs have a good depiction of the parts making up the various systems.
We offer GM conversion parts for:
Chevrolet Camaro - 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, and 81

Chevrolet Chevelle 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, and 72

Pontiac GTO 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, and 72

Pontiac Firebird 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, and 72
Buick Skylark 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, and 72
Oldsmobile Cutlass 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, and 72

You'll need the following basic items:
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch linkage assembly
Transmission (bell housing, clutch, shifter, fork)
We have kits that can also be used to complete or refurbish a worn out setup. Many parts are also available separately.
Z-bar service kit individual components:
9851N stud seat (2 req)
9876N stud spring
9873N stud seal
489N star washer
297N lock nut
Also required are engine & frame ball studs.
To complete or refurbish a clutch pedal assembly:
Pedal pads (both brake & clutch)
clutch pedal bumper
Clutch pedal bushing

How To Use Por-15


We carry several POR-15 products. Product part #'s vary depending on colors, size, etc... see our parts catalog for specific details. This stuff is really good in protecting frames, floors, etc... I will give you a quick overview along with some tips on how this product can be used:


Buy ONLY AS MUCH PRODUCT AS YOU EXPECT TO USE. I find it better to buy 2 quarts or 3 pints of product rather than a gallon can. If I think I'm going to use a gallon - total, eventually - I may buy 4 quarts of product. It's easier to buy more product than risk losing unused product.
THE 1st TIME YOU OPEN THE POR-15 CAN - COVER IT WITH SEVERAL SHEETS OF SARAN-WRAP. If you do not do this and you put the lid back on the can... you will need a can opener to get the lid off the next time. And if you bought a gallon of product and ruin the can reopening it...



To use the product:
Wire brush or blast the item to be painted with POR-15. While this technically isn't necessary, I find things look nicer when they're cleaned up before the POR-15 is painted.

Clean the area with POR Marine Clean - part # YJ9.

Prep the area with POR Metal-Ready. - part # YJ37

Then paint the area with your choice of POR-15 coatings. POR-15 paint is UV sensitive and will fade over time if sunlight can get to it. To topcoat your work, use either POR-15 Blackcoat or Chassiscoat black paint.

I USE CHEAP DISPOSABLE BRUSHES. I also wear latex gloves when applying POR-15.

I transfer ONLY AS MUCH PRODUCT I expect to use into a disposable container (plastic bowl, rattle can paint cap, bottom cut off of a 2 liter bottle. and brush the stuff on. POR-15 will lay flat even if brushed on. When I'm done, I throw away the brush, whatever's left over in the container I was working on and my gloves.

There you have it. Using POR-15 is easy and is very effect way to kill rust in its tracks.

Find more POR-15 products here.
















Thursday, December 17, 2009

Mopar GM Ford Overheating Cause Checklist

Before you try and solve an overheating issue, you need to make sure there actually is a problem.

A problem is typically defined as an engine that won't run under 210 degrees or is blowing water out of the cooling system (i.e. visibly overheating).

Make sure your gauge is accurate. If you don't have a gauge, temporarily install a quality mechanical temperature gauge to verify the coolant temperature. A hand held heat sensor can also accurately gauge temperature.

When is the vehicle is overheating - sitting still or moving? This will help you narrow down the cause.



Overheating checklist

1. Low coolant

2. Incorrect coolant mix - should be 50/50 anti-freeze & water. The more anti-freeze you add, the less efficient the coolant mix will be in dissipating heat.
3. Loose or slipping belt - check for squealing or glazing of the belt and correct tension on belt.

4. Radiator cap faulty

5. Thermostat stuck closed, or not installed.

6. Air trapped in coolant system - purge coolant system

7. Ignition timing to far advanced - over advanced engines cause the engine to run hotter.

8. Incorrect heat range of spark plugs.

9. Collapsed hose - typically observed when car is in motion, the water pump will suck the lower hose closed and block flow. To solve this you'd install a spring inside the lower hose.

10. Trash in between radiator/condenser - often times you'll have a lot of leaves and other trash in between the condenser and the radiator - blocking air flow.

11. Inadequate airflow through radiator (missing baffling, shroud).

12. Insufficient cooling from radiator (either too small, clogged up or fins bent) - have radiator serviced and make sure it's in good condition and correct for the application.

13. Fan Clutch (if equipped) faulty - a fan clutch will allow the fan to free wheel when it's not needed. When the car is sitting still and the engine is hot, the clutch should engage and drive the fan.

14. Impeller or pulleys incorrect for application - under-drive pulleys will turn the water pump slower - and reduce the amount of cooling. Aftermarket water pumps may spin the impeller slower as well. If you overheat in traffic - this may be the culprit.

15. Blown Head Gasket or cracked head - leaking exhaust into water jacket - You can check for hydrocarbons in the coolant and perform a compression test to determine if the head gasket is blown. Also, your oil may have coolant in it turning it into what looks like chocolate milk.


Cooling system Tech:

The more pressure the system is under - the higher the water can get before boiling.

With a 0 PSI cap water will boil at 212 degrees. For each PSI you raise the cap, you raise the boiling point temperature about 2 percent. Typically with a 15 PSI cap you boil at 252 degrees.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Early Ford Mustang Engine Conversions V8 from Inline 6


Upgrading a Mustang is relatively easy. Select the appropriate engine mounts, radiator and change the fuel lines if swapping from a L6 to a V8.

Motor Mounts

Early 65 mustangs (built prior to 11/01/65) will require a V8 engine support bracket if you don't already have it. This mount combination has a stud on it. Part #'s XH50 and FJ5151 will get you a frame bracket & engine mount combination.

Mustangs from 65 (after 11/65) on up will have the bracket you need welded onto the car, regardless of what engine was installed. The only thing required is to obtain the appropriate engine mounts for the engine in question.

Windsor & Cleveland engines - use the same mounts, and since the engine was available from 1965 on up, you simply need to obtain the correct V8 engine mount which is part # XH51.

FE - Originally available in the Mustang beginning in 1967 - to install a 390 or 428FE in a 1967 to 1971 Mustang use part # XH54.

"Convertible mounts" - will lower the engine 1/2". These can be used on a coupe to lower the engine.

Recommended modifications:

Radiator - With increased power comes the requirement to get rid of the extra heat. We offer a wide variety of radiators. To select the appropriate radiator, simply select the YEAR and ENGINE CID that applies to the car in question. The core support on your car will support whatever radiator was originally offered.

Choosing a "heavy duty" or "A/C" radiator will get you the largest stock radiator available.

Radiator interchange is 65 to 66, and 1967 to 1970.
The waterpump outlet changes in 1970 on the windsor/cleveland so you need to match your radiator with your waterpump (or vice-versa). For example, if you have a 1975 351W engine and you're putting it into a 1968 Mustang - buy the "1970 radiator". A 1969 radiator has both outlets on the passenger side. A 1970 radiator has the upper outlet on the passenger side, and the lower outlet on the drivers side. The FE engine will position the lower hose on the drivers side.


Other considerations:

Fuel lines - the fuel lines differ from a 6-cylinder mustang to a V8 mustang. See our catalog to obtain the appropriate fuel lines to support the engine style & year of vehicle.

The sending unit in the tank is the same - regardless of original engine option.

Brakes - the 6-cylinder brake system uses different spindles and a smaller drum than a V8 car. It also has a different wheel bolt pattern (4 lug - vs. the V8's 5 lug).

Exhaust - Select the appropriate exhaust, either stock exhaust manifolds or headers. Select items that match both the engine style and chassis year. Keep in mind, the C6 automatic transmission is physically larger than a C4 and will cause header fitment issues. If installing a 351W or 351C in a 1965 or 1966 Mustang you will need "engine swap" headers.

Transmission - Select the appropriate trans based on bellhousing. The C4 is capable of handling most engine packages in a mustang, so that's the preferable transmission.

Rear End - Several rearends were used on the Mustang, typically an 8" - sometimes a 9". The 8" rear is adaquate in most cases. If converting from a L6 to a V8 - you'll want to use V8 axle shafts.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

GM Muncie 4-Speed Decoding

muncie m20 m21 m22 transmission

The Muncie 4-speed transmission was used with many different GM models and engine combinations from 1963 through 1974. The basic design and operation theory of the gearbox changed little during this period, however several design upgrades and modifications were made during the total production run. The Muncie was used with most performance engines, and is not to be confused with the Saginaw or Borg Warner 4-speeds.

The Muncie is distinguished from the Saginaw in that the reverse lever on the Muncie is mounted in the extension housing, where the Saginaw reverse lever is mounted in the side cover. The main difference between the Muncie and the Borg-Warner is that the Muncie has a 7-bolt side cover and the Borg Warner has a 9-bolt side cover.

muncie, saginaw and borg warner comparison


Muncie 4-speeds were produced in two different ratios wide ratio (M-20) and close-ratio (M-21). An extra heavy duty close-ratio version (M-22) was also offered on many of the big-block high-performance models.The choice of transmission was dictated by the engine size and rear-axle ratio. Axle ratios of 3.73 and lower (numerically higher) came with close-ratio transmissions, while axle ratios of 3.55 and higher (numerically lower) used wide-ratio transmissions. In addition, many GM high-performance engines came with M-22 “Rock-Crusher” in the 1970-73 years, however an early version of the M-22 was available as early as 1965 in Corvettes.

Proper identification of the transmission type is absolutely necessary, but sometimes difficult due to several factors. First, GM used several different methods to label and identify transmissions from year to year and model to model. Unfortunately the identification systems seem to have many exceptions, rendering them virtually useless to the restorer. In addition, due to engine and transmission swaps, and modifications that occur over the years many cars do not carry the original drive train that they were produced with.

For example, due to interchangeability, a 1969 Pontiac could have a trans case and gears from a Buick and a rear housing (extension) from an Oldsmobile. Several production changes through the years that effect the external appearance may also cause additional confusion when identifying a particular transmission:

1. Both single and dual drain plugs were used.
2. Speedometer adapters were used on either sides of the rear section (extension).
3. Side covers were sometimes secured with studs and nuts, other times with bolts.
4. Input shafts may be fine or coarse spline. Output shafts may be large or small. Combinations of these vary.
5. External shift levers are secured with studs and nuts, others with bolts. Some levers are long and some short.
6. Input shafts may have 1 ring, 2 rings, or no rings at all.

M-22 “Rock Crusher” Identification
The M-22 close-ratio transmission is easily identified internally from the M-20 and M-21 versions by the angle of the gear teeth.

The M-22 was only produced in a close-ratio version, so it will not appear on models with high rear-axle ratios (3.55 or lower numerically) unless someone has changed it.

The main internal differences in the 3 types of transmissions are listed in the parts below.
• M-20 differs from M-21: Input shaft and Cluster gear
• M-20 & M-21 differ from M-22: Input shaft, Cluster gear, First, Second, Third, Reverse idler gear

All other components interchange, with the exception of production upgrades and changes. For example, 1963-65 synchronizers, blocking rings, etc. do not interchange with 1966 and newer versions, and therefore the transmission must be stock or interchanged as a unit.


M-20 Wide Ratio

Cluster gear teeth: 25-22-19-17
Input shaft/gear teeth: 21

M-21 & M-22 Close-Ratio Cluster Gear teeth:
27-22-19-17
Input shaft/gear teeth: 26

muncie transmission input shaft gear