Red 65 Impala Rod

For the auto industry in the United States, 1965 was a great year. Sales were at record levels, the Ford Mustang was defining a completely new genre and both Ford and GM introduced full-size cars that were virtually all-new from bumper to bumper.

While Ford designers went in an angular direction, GM countered with what was referred to as “Coke-bottle styling” with the rear third of their full-size cars kicked up in the rear. This styling treatment looked especially good on models featuring pillar-less hardtop greenhouses and the convertible models that topped the Buick, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, and Pontiac lineups, all looking especially graceful.

From all of the many choices, the Chevy Impala, especially the SS two-door hardtop, seems to stand out from the crowd.

This sense of style has not been lost on Bobby Jackson of Ventura, California. Jackson, a retired truck driver, has focused his spare time on building an award-winning 1965 Impala SS two-door hardtop. With the help of his wife Alisa and his three grown children, Dathan, Anitra and Chennelle, the car’s evolution from a solid rust-free Impala to the showstopper seen here is complete.

Bobby’s taste in cars was influenced by his father and, to a lesser degree, his uncles. Growing up, he noted that all of them spent time keeping their rides in tip-top shape, trading up whenever possible and seemingly in competition with each other to have the best-prepped ride. Early on, he saw their pride in their cars and how their cars made each feel special.

Bobby shared his first car, a 1952 Ford four-door, with his brother. Coming of age in the mid-’60s, he was smitten with the Mustang. At the same time, he was smitten by an interest in the opposite sex and realized you are what you drive. He was equally smitten by his first 1965 Impala and he noted that its shape found favor with the ladies.

After getting married and three kids later, Bobby decided just before his retirement it was time to get another 1965 Impala. He found a car on Craigslist in 2004 in San Francisco. It was a very original car, Van Nuys, California-built, first purchased in Northern California at Montgomery Chevrolet. Bobby still has the original license plate and frame.

“The car was in stock condition when I bought it,” says Bobby. “It had very little rust but along the way it received an engine swap from a 327 to a 350. With my retirement just a year away, I decided to do a full body-off restoration so I got busy and had half the job done just before retiring.”

The project went forward, but not without detours along the way. There were bad body shops that didn’t follow through. “It wasn’t until I hooked up with Brandon Echols that the project really came together,” says Bobby. “Brandon is responsible for the fantastic body and paint job.”

The underhood area received a lot of attention. Out went the tired 350, replaced with a 350 crate engine. Upgrades included a COMP XE274 cam, an MSD distributor, Edelbrock RPM performance dual-carb intake, RPM Performance 70cc heads, March Performance serpentine belt kit with Hot Rod Air A/C setup, and a Be Cool radiator with SPAL dual fans. Other upgrades included a pair of Hedman headers, a Tuff Stuff brake booster and master cylinder, Baer brakes, and Flowmaster mufflers.

The Turbo 350 transmission hooks up with the rolling stock that starts with classic American Racing Torq Thrust II wheels. The look is timeless even though the wheels (18 inches up front, 20 inches in the rear) are quite a bit bigger than the 15-inch wheels found on the car in 1965. BFGoodrich tires (245/40-18 up front, 295/40-20 in the rear) give the car a forward rake that works well with the overall stance.

The rear axle is 12-bolt main, with an Eaton posi-traction set-up with 3.08 gears. Upgrades were done by Coast Driveline of Ventura, California. Exhaust came courtesy of Pettigrew Muffler of Oxnard. The grille, headlights and bumpers were chromed by Advanced Plating of Tennessee, with the rest of the exterior trim supplied by both Classic Industries and Impala Bob’s.

The interior stands out in every way, featuring a two-tone leather treatment by Superior Upholstery in Camarillo, California. Inside, you’ll find the controls for the RideTech air suspension system, a complete set of Auto Meter gauges, a B&M shift kit, and the high-powered and sweet-sounding Alpine audio system. A Ron Francis wiring harness ties together the 12-volt necessities.

When Bobby took us for a drive up the Pacific Coast Highway, we couldn’t help but notice the attention to detail at every turn. It was as if someone applied modern luxury car treatments to a mainstream GM full-size car.

A 1976 shade of Ferrari Red was the paint choice with the clearcoat blended with 1986 Honda Red. With the early morning sunrise just coming over the mountains to the east, the depth of the paint is simply unbelievable.

“This car was built to drive and that’s exactly what I do. I drive it to all shows, it’s never been on a trailer,” says Bobby with a measure of pride. “The first thing people notice about my car is the bright red paint and straight body lines. Then, they notice the interior and engine and custom taillights. Props go out to Alan Palmer of Palmer’s Customs in Camarillo, who helps to keep my car special.”

Many agree that it is one of the finest mid-’60s Impalas ever encountered.

1970 Superbird

A One-time Bristol International Speedway “Plymouth Road Runner Superbird” Pace Car has resurfaced in the “Motor City” minus the graphics

NASCAR racing and big block Mopars have been a huge part of Steve Liabenow’s life. His family has been attending Bristol 500 races for nearly 30 years as season ticket holders.

During a typical oval track racing event, it’s hard to miss the pace car at the front of the pack. Automobile manufacturers jockey each year for the opportunity to have their product at the forefront showcasing a current model. Back in the ’50s, ’60s and early ’70s, it was common for private companies or individuals to dress up a special automobile with unique graphics, decals and paint scheme as an advertising tool or rolling billboard.

The pace car also serves as a group organizer at the start of a race and during interruptions to control the flow of traffic caused by crashes, blown tires and other unforeseen circumstances during the typical NASCAR event. It takes a special driver and automobile like the 1970 Plymouth Road Runner Superbird to serve as the “Official Pace Car”.

In 2010, Steve Liabenow had the fortune to acquire one of the most recognized and coveted automobiles from NASCAR’s past. Tucked away in North Carolina was a numbers-matching Fire Blue Metallic 1970 Plymouth Road Runner Superbird. While talking to the owner’s widow prior to the purchase, she revealed this Superbird had a connection to NASCAR racing.

The original owner resided in Kingsport, Tennessee, and used it as a pace car at Bristol International Speedway during the NASCAR racing season in the early ’70s to showcase his Oakwood Union 76 filling station. The exact nature of its role is not clear but documents and photographs support the claim.

Purchased new from Alley Motors in Church Hill, Tennessee, a short distance from Bristol International Speedway, the Superbird was done up with traditional colorful logos, decals and stickers to get the word out or advertise his local business. It remained in full pace car form until early 2000 when the owner attempted to put it back to factory form, only to realize it was too late. The (B5) Fire Blue Metallic paint was stained and faded beyond a typical rubout or polish state. A professional factory correct paint finish was applied and has held up extremely well after nearly 10 years with no signs of wear or degradation.

Under the hood of this original Superbird (except for the one repaint)is a well detailed “born with” 440 Super Commando V-8 engine factory rated at a modest 375 horsepower rating at 4,600 rpm. The factory original interior includes a Hurst four-speed shifter, tic-toc tachometer and standard AM radio.

Performance options include power steering, front power disc brakes, Hemi suspension, heavy-duty shocks, Trak Pak and Dana rear axle. Additional options include a set of original factory rally wheels and adjustable driver’s side remote door mirror.

The trunk compartment and deck lid underside with original paint and grease pencil markings remain factory original. It appears the area was left untouched during the one repaint. A factory original window sticker, build sheet and additional documentation came with the purchase of this thoroughbred.

Chrysler developed the Plymouth Superbird for NASCAR, or stock car racing as it was commonly referred to, in 1970. It was a spin-off from the 1969 Dodge Charger Daytona. The platform dates back to the 1969 Dodge Charger 500 and has the honor of being the first American car to be designed aerodynamically using a wind tunnel and computer analysis. Ford Motor Company had the 1969 Torino Talladega and the two American muscle car giants went head-to-head on the stock car circuit.

Many in the stock car fraternity support the notion that the 1970 Plymouth Road Runner Superbird was built to lure Richard Petty back to the Mopar brand. Petty had hooked up with Ford Motor Company during the 1969 season after being with Chrysler for many years. In 1970, he was behind the wheel of a Petty Blue Plymouth Road Runner Superbird sporting the iconic #43.

He’s owned several Mopars including a 1969 Dodge Coronet RT, 1969 Plymouth Hemi Road Runner, 1970 Panther Pink Dodge Challenger T/A and an original 1970 Plymouth ’Cuda with Six-Pack.

A few years back, he purchased a 1969 Dodge Charger Daytona. It was kept for a couple years then replaced with a 1969 Dodge Charger 500. Though pleased with the purchase, the “Winged Car” urge got the best of him once again. Enter the 1970 Plymouth Superbird.

The 1970 Plymouth Superbird went to the top of Steve’s dream car list years ago after meeting the King of NASCAR, Richard Petty, at a local event and seeing the world famous #43 Petty Blue Plymouth Road Runner Superbird at a museum. His collection of Richard Petty memorabilia is extensive and includes a signed vintage style race helmet, die-cast cars, Richard Petty album and Petty Blue with white striped racing jacket, to name a few.

Purchased in 2010, he enjoys taking his 1970 Plymouth Superbird to events with his wife Kelle and their two daughters, Jade and Hannah. It’s received numerous awards including Best of Show at the Roush museum car show in Livonia, Michigan.

As part of winning the top award, a local radio station will display the 1970 Plymouth Superbird at the 2012 Detroit Autorama.

Towing Your Muscle Car

Beasts of Burden

Picking the right tow vehicle

Story Wayne Scraba

During the dog days of summer – at least in our neck of the woods (tourist country) – a common site is an overworked RV stranded on the side of the road, hood up and engine steaming. Honestly, just because a given car, truck or RV can have a hitch fitted doesn’t make it a tow vehicle.


It doesn’t matter if you’re hauling a trailer for a collector car, camping, boating, powersports, biking or a race car, the single most important piece of equipment you’ll require is a capable tow vehicle. Without a truck (motorhome, van, etc.), you simply cannot move your trailer with any kind of safety to the final destination. Obviously, every hobby has different demands, and that means everyone will likely place different stipulations upon the tow vehicle. Some folks prefer the comfort and convenience of a motorhome. Others appreciate the versatility of a pickup truck, while others value the passenger-carrying capabilities only a van or a Suburban can offer. Still others have trailers and equipment so large, a conventional pickup truck is actually out of the question. In any case, to ultimately arrive at your destination (and to arrive safely), there are a number of things to consider.

Weight Ratings

So which combination is best suited to trailering? That depends upon your requirements, but no matter what your personal towing preference, you still have to purchase the right tow vehicle (with the right equipment) to get the job done. If there is any secret to trailer towing and setting up a given vehicle for the task of tugging a trailer, it involves determining the total combined loaded weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer. This weight is referred to as the Gross Combination Weight Rating or GCWR. Each and every truck, car or motorhome has a maximum GCWR that will allow for satisfactory performance when towing.

How do you arrive at the GCWR? It’s not that difficult. Most trailers will have a “Trailer Manufacturing Rating” stamped on the trailer ID tag (usually affixed to the left front of the trailer frame). This tag will indicate the weight of the trailer. Next, you have to figure out how much equipment you’re going to carry. This includes the weight of everything in and on your trailer, including support equipment, tools, spare fuel, oil, water and so on. The total loaded trailer weight is then added to the total loaded weight of the tow vehicle. Keep in mind that the total weight of all passengers, luggage, supplies and other equipment loaded into the tow vehicle must be included in the total GCWR figure (more on GCWR later).

In order to determine tongue weight, most automotive manufacturers point out that you can simply use 10 percent as a basis for dead-weight hitches and 12 percent as a basis for weight-distributing platform hitches (sometimes called an equalizer hitch). When towing a trailer, you have to add the tongue load to the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of the tow vehicle, because the truck will be carrying that weight too. The manufacturers also suggest it’s a good idea to weigh your trailer and the tongue separately after the trailer is loaded. Carefully planned trailer loading can be used to juggle the tongue weight percentage.

Getting Hitched

Once GCWR and tongue weight have been calculated, you can determine the type of hitch assembly required for your tow vehicle. The lightest type of hitch is commonly referred to as Class I assembly. These are light-duty pieces designed for a maximum trailer weight of up to 2,000 pounds and a tongue weight of no more than 200 pounds. The common rear step bumper found on a truck is capable of handling this weight (both trailer weight and tongue weight). A ball size of 17/8 inches is typically required for use with these lightweight trailers. Few, if any, serious equipment (boat, race car, etc.) trailers fall into this category.

Class II and Class III hitches are almost always skipped over by the Detroit automobile manufacturers, simply moving to the large Class IV hitch assemblies when the trailer weight exceeds 2,000 pounds. The one exception to this rule is certain pickup trucks with rear step bumpers carrying a 4,000-pound trailer weight rating and a 400-pound tongue weight rating. A two-inch diameter ball is required in all applications up to 4,000 pounds.

The typical Class IV hitch package is designed for use with trailers up to approximately 8,500 to 10,000 pounds with tongue weights of between 800 and 1,200 pounds. There are a number of different tow vehicles capable of pulling a trailer in this range, but always remember that a trailer of this size is large. Class IV equipment normally consists of a hitch platform that is bolted to the truck frame through pre-punched holes. The hitch ball, anti-sway and equalizing equipment must be purchased from aftermarket sources. Hitch ball diameters are commonly in the 2-inch to 25/16-inch range with platform hitch packages. Certain Class IV platforms are welded to the frame in addition to the bolting procedure. This is acceptable as long as the welding process is done correctly.

Class V hitches are similar to Class IV versions, but they’re larger. For the most part, Class V hitches were originally designed for commercial or agricultural applications. Where a typical Class IV hitch will be based around a 2-inch square receiver, a Class V receiver measures 2½ inches and is rated at 10,000 pounds. With a weight distributing assembly, the total weight rating typically goes up to 14,000 pounds. This sort of hitch is typically limited to use on full size, one ton or larger trucks.

What about equalizing devices? According to the manufacturers, trailers that exceed 4,000 pounds mandate some sort of weight distribution device. In practice, this system is based upon a weight-distributing hitch, which disburses tongue weight to all axles of the tow vehicle and trailer. This allows vehicles to tow heavier trailers with less sagging at the rear and improves steering and brake control. A weight-distributing hitch system includes a hitch head that fits into the receiver-tube opening, spring bars, and hook-up brackets that connect the spring bars to the trailer frame.

The last type of trailer hitch assembly commonly found on light-duty trucks is the fifth-wheel assembly. Fifth-wheels are hitches in the bed of a pickup that include a plate, like on a big rig, whereas a gooseneck is a ball in the bed that gets mounted directly to the frame. There are two types of fifth-wheel assemblies manufactured today. The first design has a fifth-wheel mounted on a bar, which is supported by brackets mounted to (or over) the rear wheel fender housings. The kingpin is then mounted to the trailer. The second type of fifth-wheel hitch features a kingpin mounted in the bed or box of the pickup truck while the actual fifth-wheel is attached to the trailer. The fifth-wheel hitch is not supplied by any truck manufacturer. Instead, it is supplied by the trailer manufacturer or an aftermarket vendor such as Reese or Draw-Tite.

The tongue weight or load of a fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailer is often greater in percentage than that found in a conventional tag-along trailer. Because of this, you have to be very careful with the truck GVWR, as well as the maximum allowable payload of the tow vehicle. Due to the weights involved, most big fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailers mandate trucks with dual rear wheels.

In all cases from Class I to the large fifth-wheel rigs, you should first consult the trailer-towing guides provided by the Detroit vehicle manufacturers. A lengthy list of GCWR packages for all of their respective trucks is included in those trailer guides. It’s a very good idea to peruse this list of specs completely before deciding on the truck for a given application. One word to the wise: The use of a truck that is too heavy for the intended trailering application is always better than using one that is too light.

Rolling Stock

Generally speaking, the larger the truck and trailer package, the larger the tire required. Tires are best selected by the “bigger is better” method. All modern trucks have a certification/tire label on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab (the Incomplete Vehicle Document is used when a truck is converted into a motorhome or other custom body). This label shows the size of the original equipment tires mounted on the truck when it was new and also shows the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called GVWR or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo (don’t confuse this with GCWR – which includes the trailer weight). The certification/tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles (called Gross Axle Weight Rating or GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh the truck. You should never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axles on the truck.

Don’t forget about the truck spare tire either. Spare tire location and the method of deployment can also prove important in trailering combinations. Some trucks might be best equipped with a box-mounted spare, while others are best arranged with under-chassis assemblies. Many manufacturers offer special crank-operated spare tire carriers or glide-out models that simply take the drudgery out of spare tire removal and installation. Remember that the type of trailer you tow can have an influence on the operation of the crank-out mechanism. In addition, the type of spare is also consequential. When the truck is loaded to maximum capacity and you have to get somewhere with a fully loaded trailer, you’re far better off with a matching (correct capacity) spare than a generic tire.

Harnessing the Power

Trailer wiring harnesses are another prime ingredient of towing. Most truck manufacturers offer factory-installed trailer wiring harness assemblies as standard or optional equipment. The first type available is a common five-wire harness. This is a light-duty harness for use with trailers without brakes (typical Class I trailers). The second type of harness available on most pickup trucks is a heavy-duty, seven-wire assembly. It’s designed for use with trailers exceeding Class I, which require the use of trailer brakes. In some instances, the connector is not included with this harness, but all of the applicable wiring is routed to the rear of the truck and tie-wrapped to a frame member. If that’s the case, you have to supply the correct connector for your specific trailer and trailer brake arrangement.

The electrical system on the tow vehicle will also require upgrading in towing applications. Remember that the truck now has to contend with a number of added loads on the power supply and storage system. These loads include the need for charging the trailer battery(s), additional lights, trailer brakes and so on. Because of this, all of the Detroit manufacturers offer heavy-duty alternators in the amp range of 100 to 130+. These heavy-duty alternators are designed to cope with the increased demands placed upon them, and in most cases, they’re either part of a towing package or available optionally. The same applies to heavy-duty batteries. Start with the largest capacity battery available for your truck. In most applications, a battery carrying a 600+ cold-cranking rating will be required for towing purposes. Another electrical option that is readily available (and ideal for race car haulers) is an auxiliary battery. Most Detroit truck manufacturers offer a dual-battery setup. Although this does not ensure double the cranking power, it does guarantee that you will have at least one fully charged power source. Most auxiliary batteries are rated at 500+ CCA. That’s enough capacity to boost-start the truck (or the car on your trailer) if necessary. In addition, this battery can supply power for any number of accessories that might come into use while running or parked.

Powertrain

When it comes to engine, transmission and rear-axle combinations for towing, opinions are diverse. However, virtually everyone agrees on one thing: If you tow in any type of terrain with grades, bigger is always better. For example, we’ve had extremely good luck towing on the flatlands of the Great Plains with a small displacement V-8 pickup. The moment that same truck rendezvoused with the Rocky Mountains, it howled, “Enough!” Mother Nature can become a great equalizer in these situations, and you’ll end up kicking yourself for not purchasing the largest power source available for the GVWR of the truck you select. All three Detroit truck manufacturers offer a wide array of engine, transmission and rear axle choices. In each of those situations, the truck manufacturer can provide a recommended powertrain combination for a specific GCWR package.

Here’s how the math works (and intertwines): The Sierra crew cab 4X4 has a GVWR of 7,000 pounds. With the 403hp 6.2L engine, six-speed automatic transmission and 3.42:1 rear-axle ratio, along with a heavy-duty cooling package, GMC has determined the maximum trailer weight (loaded) is 9,300 pounds. That means the GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) of the rig is 16,300 pounds, including the truck, trailer, everything on the trailer and everything in the truck (including you and your passengers). Similar recommendations (minimum engine size, transmission type, rear-axle ratio, truck GVW) are made for every truck manufactured.

Keep in mind that the power output of the engine, the transmission combination and the rear-axle ratio can add up to much improved reliability in the total trailering package. In most of today’s trucks, you can specify either an overdrive automatic or, in select cases, an overdrive manual transmission. These gearboxes typically feature an overdrive ratio of roughly .70:1 in high gear. Simple math proves that a pickup truck fitted with a 4.56:1 rear axle and a .70:1 overdrive works out to a remarkable 3.19:1 overall ratio. This allows you to tow in the highest non-overdrive gear, but when the truck is empty, you can operate it in overdrive. Properly equipped, the truck will live longer, will perform better under load and will prove easier to drive.

Built to Haul

Extra capacity cooling systems are important in a towing application (that should be a no-brainer). As trailer size and the overall package weight increases, so does the demand for additional cooling. The normal powerplant coolant operating range will increase as the truck is burdened with additional weight or long grades. At the same time, the transmission (automatic) will also require additional help and so will the engine oiling system. As you’re no doubt aware, a certain amount of powerplant cooling is provided by the lubricant. As the demands on the engine increase, the need for additional cooling also increases.

For the most part, trucks equipped with air conditioning are fitted with larger capacity radiators, heavy-duty clutch fans (often with increased pitch on the fan blades) and/or auxiliary electric fans. These features all ensure that the maximum amount of air is pulled through the radiator. In addition to this increased cooling efficiency, you should also consider factory-fitted, heavy-duty transmission coolers (for automatic equipped trucks), heavy-duty radiators and auxiliary engine oil coolers. All of these items can be included in the manufacturer’s heavy-duty cooling system, towing package, or combination of the previously mentioned components. The heavy-duty automatic transmission cooler can include a larger radiator tank and/or separate transmission oil cooler. The auxiliary engine oil cooler is just as the name implies – a separate radiator is plumbed into the engine’s oiling system.

Heavy-duty suspension components are normally determined by the GCWR ratings, but many of the manufacturers do not include heavy-duty shock absorbers or large diameter stabilizer bars in their entry level towing packages. Does four-wheel drive offer a towing advantage? Not if you tow in normal conditions. Obviously, it’s some assistance when towing in snow or mud, but for most auto enthusiasts, that isn’t a pressing issue. You’ll often find that four-wheel-drive trucks actually have a lower GVWR and lower GCWR than their two-wheel-drive relatives.

Auxiliary or larger capacity fuel tanks are also good towing investments. The added range is more of a convenience than anything else. But if you find that filling a small tank frequently becomes a chore, you’ll quickly appreciate more fuel capacity. Electronic speed or cruise control is also a perfect option for towing. Large mirrors (the latest trucks offer large electric mirrors) are another serious bonus. Rear cargo lamps can prove beneficial when hooking up at night and can also be useful when loading the bed when shrouded in darkness. Other interesting truck hardware that’s applicable to towing includes underhood lamps, reel-style trouble lamps (mounted underhood with enough cord to reach the rear of the truck), additional behind-seat storage, roof marker lamps and a host of comfort and convenience options. In the end, take the time to peruse the respective manufacturer sales catalogs. In many cases, there’s plenty of good trailering equipment available right from the manufacturer, but you have to find it.

When all is said and done, the right beast of burden for towing depends upon the load you’re hauling. So, choose your options and your trailer carefully. You won’t be sorry.